Çengelköy & Beylerbeyi: The Nostalgic Districts of Istanbul, invites you on a journey through time on the serene shores of the Bosphorus on Istanbul's Asian side. From the centuries-old plane trees and neighborhood warmth of Çengelköy to the Ottoman palaces of Beylerbeyi, from tea gardens to fishermen's restaurants, this route reveals the city's nostalgic and peaceful face. This guide, filled with history, nature, flavor, and Bosphorus views for travelers, offers a comprehensive roadmap for those who want to discover the authentic atmosphere of Çengelköy and Beylerbeyi.
Why Are Çengelköy and Beylerbeyi Special?
Çengelköy and Beylerbeyi are two neighboring districts in Istanbul's Üsküdar district, located on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. Çengelköy is a neighborhood with fishing village origins; it is famous for its wooden waterside mansions (yalılar), centuries-old plane trees, and sincere artisan culture. Beylerbeyi, on the other hand, is a pearl in the shadow of Ottoman palaces; the Beylerbeyi Palace and its lush groves add an elegant air to the district. Both districts make you feel as if you are in a fairytale land, away from the modern chaos of Istanbul.
The charm of these districts lies in the harmony of the past and present. While watching the Bosphorus in a tea garden in Çengelköy, the sounds of seagulls and the rhythm of the waves embrace you. In Beylerbeyi, you can witness the splendor of the Ottoman Empire in the ornate halls of the palace. The street cats, the smell of neighborhood bakeries, and the cool breeze of the Bosphorus make this route unforgettable.
Start Your Tour in Çengelköy: Çınaraltı and the Coastline
A tour of Çengelköy should begin at the district's symbol, the Çınaraltı Tea Garden. This tea garden overlooking the Bosphorus serves under the shade of centuries-old plane trees; freshly brewed tea and simit are a local ritual. The Çengelköy Pier, right next to the tea garden, is a 19th-century Ottoman structure; it is pleasant to watch the European side of the Bosphorus from here, especially the Ortaköy Mosque. You can buy fresh fish sandwiches from the small fishing boats around the pier.
Take a short walk along the Çengelköy coast; the wooden mansions and cobblestone roads reflect the nostalgic texture of the district. The famous Çınaraltı Mosque of Çengelköy is a simple 18th-century structure; its courtyard is ideal for a quiet break. You can sit on the benches on the coast and watch the lights of the Bosphorus Bridge or the passing ships.
Towards Beylerbeyi: The Palace and Mansions
You can reach Beylerbeyi from Çengelköy in 15-20 minutes on foot; follow the coastal road or use the 15F bus. Beylerbeyi is famous for the Beylerbeyi Palace, the summer palace of the Ottomans. Built for Sultan Abdülaziz in 1865, this palace is a mixture of Baroque and Ottoman architecture; its ornate ceilings, crystal chandeliers, and garden with a Bosphorus view are fascinating. The entrance fee is approximately 50 TL (as of 2025); guided tours are recommended to understand the stories of the palace.
Ottoman mansions line the coast of Beylerbeyi; especially the mansions next to the Hamid-i Evvel Mosque are elegant examples of 19th-century architecture. The mosque dates back to 1778; its small but impressive courtyard overlooks the Bosphorus. In the backstreets of Beylerbeyi, restored Greek and Armenian houses offer a nostalgic atmosphere.
Historical and Cultural Stops
Çengelköy stands out with its historical texture. The Sadullah Pasha Mansion is an 18th-century Ottoman mansion; it is closed to visitors, but its exterior is impressive against the Bosphorus. The Kuleli Military High School (now a museum) in Çengelköy is a building from 1843; it is one of the most beautiful structures on the Bosphorus. Advance reservation is required for a museum visit.
In Beylerbeyi, besides the Beylerbeyi Palace, the Küçüksu Pavilion is another Ottoman treasure. Built in 1857, this pavilion was used as a hunting lodge on the shore of the Bosphorus; its elegant decoration and garden are worth seeing. The entrance fee is 40 TL; the Müzekart is valid. Also, the İskele Mosque in Beylerbeyi is a simple yet peaceful Ottoman work.
Flavor Stops: The Gastronomy Map of Çengelköy and Beylerbeyi
Çengelköy is famous for its local flavors. The Çengelköy Börekçisi is ideal for breakfast with its fresh water pastry (su böreği) and savory pastries (poğaça); the cheese pastry is great with tea. For seafood, try grilled sea bass and fried mussels at Çengelköy Balıkçısı; reservations are recommended for tables with a Bosphorus view. For a more modern option, taste Mediterranean mezes and seafood at Del Mare Restaurant.
In Beylerbeyi, Villa Bosphorus offers Ottoman and Turkish cuisine on its terrace overlooking the Bosphorus; lamb tandir and artichokes in olive oil are favorites. For an affordable evening, you can eat home-cooked meals at Tarihi Çınaraltı Lokantası in Beylerbeyi; the lentil soup and stuffed grape leaves (yaprak sarma) are delicious. For dessert, the clotted cream bread pudding (kaymaklı ekmek kadayıfı) or profiteroles at Tarihi Çengelköy Pastanesi in Çengelköy are recommended. For vegans, Yeşil Mutfak in Beylerbeyi has plant-based salads and desserts.
Nature and Activities: The Serenity of the Bosphorus
Çengelköy and Beylerbeyi offer an experience intertwined with nature. Fethi Paşa Grove in Çengelköy is a peaceful escape with its walking paths and picnic areas overlooking the Bosphorus. Even in winter, the pine trees and view of the grove are impressive; admission is free. In Beylerbeyi, the Küçüksu Grove is a small but green oasis; you can relax on the benches facing the Bosphorus.
For a short boat tour on the Bosphorus, tours are organized from the Çengelköy Pier; a 30-minute tour costs about 80 TL. If you want to cycle, you can rent from the İSBİKE points on the coast; the flat road between Çengelköy and Beylerbeyi is a pleasant route. For photographers, the garden of Beylerbeyi Palace and the mansions of Çengelköy offer the best shots.
Shopping: Local Products and Boutiques
Çengelköy and Beylerbeyi offer authentic shopping options. In the Çengelköy Market, there are local honey, olive, and cheese stalls; Çengelköy Cucumber Jam is an original choice for a gift. You can buy fresh bread or simit from the Tarihi Fırın (Historic Bakery) in Çengelköy. For handicrafts, you can find ceramic cups and silk shawls at the gift shop of the Küçüksu Pavilion in Beylerbeyi.
Küçük Dükkan (The Little Shop) in Çengelköy is ideal for handmade jewelry and notebooks. In Beylerbeyi, small stalls on the coast sell Bosphorus-themed watercolor paintings. Bargaining can be done politely when shopping; the shopkeepers are generally friendly. Don't forget to buy the famous Çengelköy cucumber (crispy and small) fresh from the market.
Lesser-Known Discovery Spots
Beyond the popular routes of Çengelköy and Beylerbeyi, there are hidden treasures. The Havuzbaşı Mosque in Çengelköy is a small 18th-century mosque; its courtyard is perfect for a quiet break. The Abdullahağa Mosque in Beylerbeyi is a lesser-known Ottoman work with its location overlooking the Bosphorus.
The Kuleli Coast in Çengelköy is a viewpoint away from the crowds; it's pleasant to watch the lights of the Bosphorus Bridge from here. In Beylerbeyi, the Setbaşı Grove is a small but peaceful green area; ideal for a picnic or a walk. The Ottoman tombstones in both districts tell historical stories; you can discover them with guided tours.
Practical Tips and Transportation
Transportation to Çengelköy and Beylerbeyi is easy. You can reach Çengelköy in 10 minutes and Beylerbeyi in 15 minutes from Üsküdar with the 15F or 15T buses. You can come to Üsküdar by ferry and transfer to a bus. You can reach Üsküdar with the M5 metro line and walk. If you are coming by car, parking is limited in Çengelköy; there is a parking lot on the coast in Beylerbeyi.
Wear comfortable shoes; the coastal roads and groves of the districts are ideal for walking. Keep water and a hat with you. The districts are safe, but be mindful of your bag in the market. Use the Müzekart for palace and pavilion visits; it provides discounts. When taking photos, respect the privacy of the mansion residents.
Evening Pleasures in Çengelköy and Beylerbeyi
In the evenings, Çengelköy and Beylerbeyi are calm but enchanting. You can enjoy rakı and fish at Tarihi Yalı Restaurant in Çengelköy; the samphire (deniz börülcesi) and grilled octopus are great. In Beylerbeyi, Bosphorus Grill offers modern Turkish cuisine on its terrace with a Bosphorus view; lamb shank and olive oil dishes are recommended.
For coffee, taste Turkish coffee and homemade cake at Kahve 6 in Çengelköy; you can enjoy a hookah (nargile) at Cafe de Limon in Beylerbeyi. For live music, there are acoustic performances by local artists at Çınaraltı Cafe in Çengelköy; admission is free. Complete the evening with a walk along the Bosphorus shore; the lights of the palace are fascinating.
Conclusion: Dive into the Nostalgia of Çengelköy and Beylerbeyi
Çengelköy & Beylerbeyi: The Nostalgic Districts of Istanbul offers an adventure in the most peaceful districts of Istanbul. From the plane-tree-shaded tea gardens of Çengelköy to the Ottoman palaces of Beylerbeyi, from the cool breeze of the Bosphorus to local delicacies, this route reflects the nostalgic soul of the city. History, nature, and neighborhood warmth enchant every traveler. Draw your route to discover Çengelköy and Beylerbeyi, and dive into these treasures of Istanbul!
